Tsavo is what you would call a diamond in the rough, you have to visit it to appreciate how precious the park is.

As a young girl growing up in the village I heard many stories of Tsavo and Mtito Andei (mutito wa ndeii). It was the kind of place that one did not venture into. It was known as the place that housed unforeseen dangers, from the people who inhabited the area to the wild animals that roamed the lands.

A journey to Mtito Andei and Tsavo was one only for the brave; both places have historically been associated with doom and gloom.

"Tsavo" is a Kikamba word meaning slaughter. The use of this word bears no connection with the slaughter of Indian coolies by the locals during the construction of the railway. The word is used to refer to the slaughter of the Masaai in the area.

Needless to say its association with the man eating lions and the immortalisation of their brutality in the Hollywood production "The Ghost and the Darkness" do nothing for its reputation as a place of doom and gloom where only the fittest survive.

History tells it that at "Mtito Andei" (the forest of kites) the Maasai would lay in wait at the nearby forest with the intent to attack the Wakamba. These altercations led to the death of many Wakamba whose corpses were fed on by the kites from the surrounding forest. This gave the local river and railway station its name, Mtito Andei.

In spite of this history and any misgivings we may have held in our hearts, we embarked on a journey of discovery. A journey that led even my most supportive friends to wonder if any good would be found in Tsavo.

Our adventure took us to Tsavo West National Park. The park was established in 1948 and is 287 kilometres from Nairobi. It takes approximately five hours by road and three hours using the Standard Gauge Railway line.

This was a maiden trip for many of us and we had low expectations. Arriving at Mtito Andei in the midst of a heavy down pour did not brighten our outlook. We however chose to remain positive and looked forward to the trip.

We were hosted at the Kamboyo Guest House which is managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). This colonial house was the abode of the Warden and his family in 1948 when Tsavo West was established.

Our adventure began with a day in the park. The previous day's rains kept up and the humidity that rolled around us a reminder that the coast was just a few kilometres away. The vast numbers of wildlife made up for the weather.

 

The Maasai Giraffes with their unique splotches seemed to be admiring us as much as we were admiring them.

These giraffes have unique markings; irregular jagged edge type splotches rather than the block type markings found in other giraffes. These splotches reach all the way to their hooves (perhaps like a onesie of sorts).

The Maasai Giraffe is also known as the Kilimanjaro Giraffe, it is native to East Africa and is the largest sub-species of the giraffe family.

 

We watched the Common Zebras also known as the Plains Zebra grazing while they kept a watchful eye out for predators.

 

African Wild Dogs are a rare sight but we caught a glimpse of them. Many people have never seen these dogs as their numbers have decreased almost to the point of near extinction due to the loss of habitat and human activity.

A story is told that the dogs are descended from seven Maasai brothers who failed to heed the warnings of their elders.

The brothers had been warned against hunting wild animals when out grazing their cattle. They ignored the warnings of the elders and were turned into dogs as punishment.

African Wild Dogs are skillful hunters. They hunt as a pack and rarely miss a kill. They are capable of hunting large and small animals.

Their skill is best demonstrated when they are hunting large animals. They bite off chunks of flesh during the chase then take off, leaving the animal bleeding and in pain.

 

The Klipspringer Antelope is found in the rocky hills of Tsavo West.

Cliff/ rock jumper (Klipspringer) is an apt name for an animal that lives and grazes on the rocks. It moves fast and jumps from one rock to the another with relative ease.

On the next day we took a drive to Mzima Springs, an oasis of fresh water in a semi arid park. It is a natural habitat for hippos and crocodiles which thrive in the fresh water.

The source of Mzima Springs is a natural reservoir under the Chyulu Hills mountain ranges. These ranges were formed from volcanic lava, rock and ash.

The clear water of the springs were a sight to behold. It was an exciting treat to dip in the cool waters and quench our thirst.

There is a submarine house that is built right in the middle of the spring, just where it flows out of the rocky buffer zone.

The spring water is so clear that we could see the fish swimming. The floor of the spring was visible to the naked eye.

This was a therapeutic yet amazing experience. We sat at the house to watch the fish swim undisturbed in their natural environment. They swam by playfully without a care for our intruding and inquisitive gazes.

Hippos, which are highly dangerous and known for their ill temperaments, waded at a distance relaxed and unperturbed by our presence.

Our visit also took us to the Shetani Lava Flow and it was insightful.

The name Shetani originated from the Wakamba community. Shetani (devil) means evil or a place associated with bad omens. The ancient people who lived in the area associated the place with demons. This association was as a result of the death and destruction they experienced during the Chyulu Hills eruption. They referred to the place as Shamba la Shetani (the land of the devil) as they had not seen anything like it before.

The unique topography of the area is as a result of volcanic activity that occurred over a hundred years ago. The eruption from Chyulu Hills resulted in a lava flow that solidified into black rocks. The lava flow appears to have been 8 kilometres long with a width of 1.6 kilometres making it one of the largest volcanic crater-fields and nature trails in Kenya within a park.

After trekking on the Shetani Lava Flow we drove on to another site, Chaimu Crater.

Chaimu Crater is in fact a black hill. Its black colour comes from the lava and volcanic ash and rock that flowed from the Chyulu Hills eruption.

The Wakamba people who lived in the area associated it with demons due to its colour and called it "Maimu". The hill was later named the Chaimu Crater.

This trip was an unexpected adventure full of precious gems. The animal filled park, the cooling love of God's fresh water springs and the devils lands entwined with historical events and steeped in ancient cultures that live on through the names.

As we left, I wondered about Tsavo's past and felt that its reputation may be what keeps it safe and hidden like a precious stone.

History may have judged Tsavo harshly but what is a place without a past?